Paracus - Pacific Coast


Well quell surprise !! After many buses ans taxis I arrived at Paracus to a great hotel, the only Hotel I might add on stretch of beach that went on for miles with beautiful views out over the seaand the islands. A very happy camper was I when I was assigned my sea view room which has a beautiful terrace and a little garden! A pisco sour and watching the sun setting over the pacific was quite a sight. Yes, for the first time I felt like I was on holiday.
Peruvian tummy prevented me from dining that night, but not from hanging out in the bar listening to the musicians and chatting to the other revellers about adventures in Peru. And guess what ??? A massage !! Bliss.


I was up at 7am the next day and off on a boat to the Ballistas islands with many other tourists. We passed the famous "Candlabra" which in my view surpassed the Nasca lines. I guess we were just so close and there it was, just sitting there carved into pale rock at the edge of the ocean. Quite stunning. On to the Ballistas, which the peruvians call their "Galapagos". Many different species of birds including pelicans and even penguins, although not quite my thing for long, the 'Maternity' beach , now that was something, Sea lions, male female mating, babies everywhere the noise was so deafening, the fighting between the males " she's mine, I saw her first, feck off you fat slob". Extremely entertaining !! Back to the hotel on a beautiful calm sunny day , vegged by the pool for a while and then treated myself to yet another massage. Oh, was I born to be massaged, or what !
Pancho my guide, collected me at 2.30pm and it was off to Ica to catch the bus back to Ayacucho. Another six hour journey and would you believe they actually sell tickets to peoplewho knew there d be no seats for them. Six hours standing on a bus winding its way up into the Andes is not much fun.. Unfortunately, I got sitting to the only other "Gringo " on the bleedin bus who turned out to be a psycho german tourist who gave me the creeps but I got on with it .
Taxi back to the 'Gringo' house and all the other vollunteers greeted me with big cheers and a Mojito which they were all getting into , Dave was an ace at making them , so after all my stories we finally staggered up the stairs.


Back to the grindstone, Wawa wasi the next day through the mud and the poor little kids who are all soo sweet and so happy to see me, " la Gringita". I brought toothbrushes, toothpaste, wipes and toilet roll in the hope that they'll be encouraged by their 'Mammy' there to use them . Its pretty pathetic to see a 2/3/4 year old whose front teeth are completely black. Sometimes, I wonder do the parents actually want to help their kids in this way or is it just all too much trouble. This is all available to them I swear , its so sad.

A child wet's herself, new clothes are put on (they dont wear underwear ), eventually soiled clothes are used to mop up the mess, no mop, no disinfectant. I really hope that if I brought nothing more to them, it was a sense of hygeine and please God they'll continue with it , but I do have my doubts.

I was sitting on the floor one day at another Wa wa wasi which we were visiting. I took off my shoes at the door and next thing I see this little guy weeing out the door , just like that! My shoes, I thought !! They were fine but according to Alisa ma volunteer that works there thats what they do all the time, just stand at the door and wee right out there into the mucky street.
Sue my roomie, is a nurse and has spent some time on house calls with a doctor. We were in complete shock when she told us that everyone they visited were given antibiotics and Panadol whether, in her view, they needed them or not . This is really shocking when you think about it , what state their immune systems will be in in no time..



Anyway, my last day at work , hugs and kisses everywhere, they are an extremely affectionate people and I will miss them a lot especially all the little cuties I've been looking after these past few weeks. Surprise lunch for me , how nice ! Which I might add I managed to keep down for about an hour, how embarrassing but a nice treast from all the other volunteers all the same. I'll miss them as we all shared a lot of stories. Luckily Rosemary, from San Francisco, is already in Cusco and we're staying at the same hotel and doing Machu Pichu together and over-nighting at Aquas Calientes ( look it up ) so we'll have a blast, She's great fun to be with and she said she'll have the coctails ready when I get there and the restaurant's sussed !!

I'm actually feeling like I'd like to be going home, I miss everyone a lot but I cannot leave Peru without doing Matchu Pichu, and as much as I've loved it here it's not a country I can ever see myself returning to. Volunteering elsewhere definitely but for now I think I'm almost done with Peru!!

A night out in Ayacycho. Yippee !!

Well after two weeks of eating great food in the Gringo house it was time to venture out , so a table was booked for 25 at Ninos, the best restaurant in town. A real colonial building, awfully grand soo what I'm used to ! Jugs of the local cocktail,pisco Sour , which resembled a frothy margharita due to the egg white its blended with with wait for it ..... 43%alcohol, so needless to say after two of these we were absolutely flying ! We had invited all the staff from the house which was a huge treat for them as you can imagine. Food was great, and believe it of not only one person managed to throw up before leaving the table !!!!
Onwards and upwards to a local pub, very impressive , modern interior, very surprising . This was Party night as some of the volunteers were leaving for good the next day so off with us from ther to a club, yes you better believe it they have clubs in Ayacucho! Great music a live band of about 20 musicians much dancing by the gringos and at a very late hour many diseased bodies piled into little "put put" taxis and home with us. I was actually in two minds earlier that evening as to whether or not to go out at all as it being the eve of my Moms 1st anniversary I was feeling pretty upset, but in hindsight it was probably the best thing I could have donewe had an absolute blast. Next day hanovers all over the kitchen table panadol being passed around like sweets, red eye city. I bade farewell to some of the girls I had shatred the last two weeks with .

Pancho, my guide collected me after I had called my Dad Nick SJ, Fifi and Dh who was on the first tee, sorry for disturbing you !! The kids and Dad were up at Ardgillan where we had scattered Moms ashes a year earlier. I was really quite devastated not being there and not really having anyone to share my grief with but thank you to all the fab people who remembered and called me it meant sooooo much to me , believe me . Anyway I know my Mom is with me here in Peru so I carried her photos on the bus , listened to KT Tunstall and cried and smiled all the way to Ica. Volunteering here in Peru is something I know she would have done. I feel she would be proud of me for being here.I've been on the bus now for 5 hours winding my way thriugh the Andes up to 15ooo feet and slowly down and I am still not even close to being at sea level, so you can just imagine what the vista ids like . Totally awesome !!.

Ica and the Desert Oasis of Hacachina.
Hacachina oasis was my lodging for the night just on the outskirts of Ica. It is an oasis set among sand dunes reaching a height as high as 2000 feet. My room was mega basic, (not quite what we re used to Caro !) I ate out on the terrace overlooking the oasis which was quite special. Fluffy white towels , hot water I got but sadly no bath . Boo Hoo

Pancho collected me at 9 am and we headed off to the dunes in a sand buggy. This was not at all what I had expected, it was an all singing all dancing sand buggy complete with crashbars sandboards etc. I can't remember the last time I had as much craic, these dunes were massive and heading vertically down 1500 feet at some speed I might add was, well just mind blowing ! And onto the sand board with me , hanging on for dear life to velcro straps, lying flat, legs in the air and disappearing down about 500 feet. Jaysus adrenenal rush or what !! Again and again I did it , the guys must have thoiught this one has lost it completely. all of you dare devils /adrenal junkies I know would just love it . Mighty craic as the man says !!

Everything seemed particularly boring after that experience, the museum full of mummies and Inca artefacts, various churches a park with caged Condors, jaysus are they massive or what ??.
Then off with the Witch to visit the Witches of Ica !!, I swear I'm not joking you there is a whole area in the suburbs where witches read palms and tarrot cards etc, You can tell a witches house by the dummy witch she has flying over her gaff ! Obviously, had to have the palm read and what I will tell you is that I'm going to be around for a while yet, so Nana Bradys genes I have !
Onwards to the wine region, those of you having visited wineries in Bordeaux, South Africa DH and Emer, this was nothing that you could imagine in your wildest dreams. The tombs of the Incas , Charvis and Haris were raided in years gone by and the relics they found were sold usually to buy ,Pisco, as in alcohol and this particular Bodega was almost like a museum with all the artefacts on the walls of what was basically a very large shed. The wine is stored in Terrracota urns a bit like the olive urns you, Liz and Jackie have beautiful treesand plants in on your terraces in Marbella !!
At another Bodega we are taken throught the whole process, they have just started harvesting the grapes but I had to decline the offer to hop in to this large bath to stamp on the grapes in my bare feet. The smell, the flies, pretty disgusting.... Peruvian wine I'll be steering clear of that. The Pisco is great though, will defo take some home and we'll have a Pisco Sour night in BC2, think Dave, Dec and Eamonn may be on for that one night after a lock in !! Ha Ha -

It never ever rains in Ica, the houses are made of dried bricks, the rooves with bamboo and then muck and animal sh one t mixed together and spread on the bamboo. Actually up in the highland there are collectors of llama alpaca sheep and horse sh one t, who store this in sheds and believe it or not this is the fuel they all use to cook with. Lovely I hear you all say, Michele and Laura especially !!! I'm really not joking you, BTW.

Ok still touring the coast but havent actually seen the ocean yet. Peru is divided up into 3 regions, the Coast , The Highlands, the Jungle. Hotel last night was an absolute dive, so much for luxury . Didn't actually have to enter the shower to have a shower! Basic wasn't in it. Private plane took me over the Nasca plains (see link on the right) and I saw all the Nasca lines. Very impressive I might add. Believe it or not, I was not in the slightest bit nervous, HEY how unusual Miss 'control bunny' not being in control. The Fear royale in absolutely everything is quite obviously gone forever !!!

Continental brekky included in my dive of a hotel and I requested a banana. I laughed my heart out when I got to the check out and I had a bill for a banana !! Pancho was also able to tell me I had spent a long time on the phone, so the proprieter of the kip told him. How funny. Thanks Caro really enjoyed the chat hope you didnt get caught today !!
We got a driver and headed off to another museum, more pottery, more mummies and on to the aquaducts. Boring, but they were pretty bright guys, those Inca's, for people who didn't know how to read or write!!. On to see gold being extracted from rock and sand, mega primitive and will post photos again. I've arrived to Paracus now and have had a massage ,YES AND YES I'm up at 7 am to do the" peruvian galapogus" as they call them, it better be worth it 'cause I like this hotel a lot.

It's then back to Ayacucho for me at 3pm tomorrow, apparently for 1500 dollars you can fly directly in a private plane in 45 mins. So where is Dermot ,Denis ,Des , Lochlann and Ulick when I need them??? Bummer , its animal class for me . 6 hours uphill back to Aya.
Hope you're all well . Jaysus that took me ages. Talk to you all soon and promise I'll post some pics when I get back . Miss Peru xx

More Photos

These are a few that I took during the Festival and also on my trip (further!) up the mountains. The first is where the 'Peruvian Peig' would live, then me in traditional dress for the festival, waiting for the bus and our 'accommodation' when we stayed up the mountain. More soon.






llama trek

We left the "gringo house "at 8 am on the bus and drove high up into the Andes 2 hours from Ayacuchoto an altitude of 12000 feet. A herd of Llamas adorned with bells and bobbles took our rucksacks and off we trekked even higher again . Two guides on horseback carried water for us and a. horseback is the mode of transport for these highlanders and each family are not allowed own more than 2 horses each as grazinhg is limited at such an altitude.
At 13500 we stopped and had lunch , the altitude at this stage was affecting everyone so cocoa leaves were doled out by the handful which we stuffed into our pockets and into our mouths !!
These cocoa leaves are meant to be chewed and when combined with saliva they are supposed to create a feeling of well being and reduce headaches etc. I have to say I thought they were soo gross it was like opening a tea bag and chewing the contents but we trekked on all of us with green curly teeth and hoping the effects would soon take place !!
At 14000 we all had a blast of oxygen which I might add was much needed, its hard to imagine I know but the slightest exertion can leave you breathless, so every 5 minutes or so we stopped for a breather.
The scenery as you can imagine was amazing ( and yes it was literally breath taking !!)some peaks had snow tops there were icicles on cliff faces Not much plant life at such a haeight but what there was was perfect and beautiful.
At 14000 feet we passed a village, and I m not joking you, for those of you old enough to remember peig from the blaskets this was right there.. stone cottages stone on stone , no cement, thatched rooves. I t was just unbelievable that people lived in these conditionsno electricity, no running water, llamas sheep and dogs everywhere.
We passed many herds in our travels being tended to by 6 to 8 year olds sent off up to the mountains for the day so the animals could graze.
We reached our" lodging" which was a one roomed school, in which we ate and slept . I f you check my pictures there should be one of the mattress on the floor , yes THE mattress. The toilet was an outhouse across the field which in the middle of the night was not so pleasant . major fear of tripping over a sheep or llama !!. The toilet was a hole in the ground literally.
No electricity meant we were all in bed by sundown.
6am next day we headed out to the shearing pen where we witnessed a llama being sheared with a shears which basically resembled a large scissors. Two years growth wighing 3 lbs is worth about 15 euro. I n a pen beside us we witnesswd a llama being born , it just dropped to the ground. astonishing, some of you girls reading this have done the same I know !!!!!No sliding roof for these babies !!
after breakfast we mounted horses and trekked through the mountains for the next 2 hours, . W e were all set and waiting for our driver to take us home sitting outside in the sun an hour went by, no sign 2 hoours , holy shit everyone was having appoplexy I m a caucasian get me out of here . We ended up having to climb down treacherous ravines in the rain for the next 2 hours which was not pleasant . When we reached the road we left Pancho our guide to hitch a ride for us and we walked on towards the nexrt village. Well 30 minutes later you can imagine the 5 jaws dropping as Pancho pulled up in a local minibus that was way too overcrowded as it was and told us to pile in !! this was a minibus about 30 years old could seat about 25 people but there were at least 45 once we boarded. I was lucky enough to sit on a bag of alabaster on the floor beside a sack full of live guinea pigs , one which managed to escape and caused major consternation. This bus also had a roof rack that was piled high weith all these peoples belongings including 5 live sheep !!!I dont think OI ve ever been so petrified in all my life as you can imagine these roads are crap and very windy and I can bet the tyres on that yoke were 30 years old too, and mab did he drive fast, SCAAARY. aApparently our bus had broken down and no electricity no mobiles... Definetly not for you Michele or Laura !!
The carnival is in full swing and theres much music and dancing in the streets.
On Monday we all donned our traditional garb and took to the streets in lines and did our salsa dancing while walking I might add for 2 hours through the streets of Ayacucho, It was an absolute riot , hundreds of people line the streets and clap and cheer . Needless to say before we began we had a couple of the local coctails "pisco sour" which is a bit like brandy/sherry mixed with sprite .
Back to normal on pancake Tuesday up to the roof where we do our washing and drying. aAchange of workplace for 1 day , off to the girls orphanage . I was pleasantly surprised clean clean kids clean rooms etc, These kids seem to be doing ok on that front , no love and affection but they are well cared for. I spent the day with the babies aged 3 months to 1 year. Beautiful little babies some with parents who cannot afford to take care of them and some who have been abandoned. In the nursery there was one" Mammy" and me and about 4 girls aged 11to 13 who take care of these babies. The girls do everything from folding the cloth nappies to changing and feeding. It was a happy environment these young girls were soo lovely and soo affectionate with the kids that I left that day thinking ok, at least some kids are being taken care of in this town.
This weekend Im hioping to drive to the coast and see the nasca lines ( look it up ) in Ica a winery and the beach. so i ll keep you all posted . I miss everyone BTW. I ve slotted in very nicely to this very strange life that they live here and am really enjoying the whole experience.

Me and the Gang


Local kids.


View for my Rooftop.


day 3 and onwards

Day one of my work placement which is at a "wa wa wasi " which translates to baby house. This is a government subsidised programme and there about 150 in total in Ayacucho. Basically itswhat is best described in Angelas Ashes for those of you that read that will know what I m talking about, WE would not keep our anomals in them. A mother gives over a room or shed for daycare for up to 8 kids ranging in age from 9 months to 5 years .For this the government subsidy is a grand total of 1 euro per day, yes you read that correctly one euro per day.
We drove through the pot holed streets of Ayacucho ( which is a bit like what we know Sarajevo to be like 20 year civil war ended ten years ago and the place looks like it ended yesterday.)to the end of the concrete and then the dirt tracks began, now its rainy season here right now so these dirt tracks are pure mud . The whole village I m working in has no roads as we know them or pathways just thick mucky trails.I got out of the TRUCK on my first day and squelched my way across to a corrugated gate that opened to an equally mucky laneway to my wa wa wasi which was to be my workplace for the next 3 weeks.
Wilma was the "mammy" as the kids call her was sitting on the floor breast feeding a baby , the rain was torrential that day and the roof has a million holes in it and many buckets were collecting the water that was pouring in. Supply wise, they had feck all so I was very glad of the suitcase of stuff I had accumulated from early learning centres before I left. I dont think I have ever seen so much excitement over new things to play with and do.
I n this "shed" and in this whole village there is no running water no toilets the conditions are indescribable. When the kids want to go to the bathroom, they sit on a potty in the mucky lane and wash their hands in a very grubby plastic basin. The 11/12 year olds are not considered kids anymore and do tall the family washing by hand in a basin and it is not uncommon for 8/9 year olds to be in charge of babies as young as 8 months for a whole day at home alone.
Communication is tough, my Spanish is crap but I am trying sooo hard listening to Michel thomas at crack of dawn and having Spanish lessons 3 times a week. All the kids are truly adorable you really would like to run away with them, extremelyaffectionate and so eager to learn new things. Unfortunately they are all suffering from very bad colds, and coughs due to the weather conditions and the housing.-
The stories back at the 2gringo" house later from all the other volunteers were unbelievable as I said earlier , nothing could have prepared usfor the comnditions we have encountered.
The Government here is totally corrupt ( whats new there ) and yhe cocoa leaf trade ie cocaine is collosal. But is a means of survival for the country people - Mind blowing or what ????

I cant beliecve how little free time I have as some of you reading this know I have barely had time to take a call. My dat begins at 6 and ends abou r ten. The Ayacucuns are apparently big party people but I havent had the inclination or the erergy to partake in antthing afte ten. Theres a carnival her on Monday which we have been learning salsa dancing for so that might be the biggy !!
O n Saturday I m off for a 2 day llama trek up the mountains at 14000 feet, slleping out in a cabin so that should be quite an experience.
I have organised my trip to Cusco at the end of my 3 weeks and my trek to machu pichu cant wait for that and have booked myself into an all singing all dancing hotel for the last night. I think I ll deserve it by then !!
I have taken a ton of photos ( surprise surprise ) and as soon as I havea bit of free time I ll post them here for you all to see.

ADIOS AMIGOS XXX

In the Beginning......................

Well Hello, to all of you sitting in your centrally heated homes with the nice warm shag pile under your little tootsies and that nice cup of tea in front of you or that glass of vino if its you Emer !! A marathon journey that ended almost 24 hors later in the town of Ayacucho, which is to be my home for the next 3 weeks.

I arrived at the city of Lima population 9 million who I might add were all out on the streets that night took my 5 kg bag off the conveyor...... just kidding my 3 bags and hoped to jaysus that en route to, my hotel that I was not going to be mugged . The vehicle I was travelling in was possibly as young as 30 years .

Anywaty after 5 hours kip I headed back to the aeropuerto where I met with some of the people I was going to be living with for the next 3 weeks. couple of Canadians , English and Americans a Scot and mise the token paddy. We piled on to a weenchy little propelled plane and headed off high up over the Andes only to arrive i Ayacucho at 7 am . The tarmac had more cracks in it than a 500 hundred year old Inca and the terminal was, well a room !

We loaded into "trucks" and headed for the "Gringo house" . Jaws were a hanging as we drove through the streets... nothing could have prepared us for what we saw, there were some roads but a lot of pure mud tracks no pavements and drivers appearing to have no idea which side of the road they were meant to be on . Women in traditional peruvian costumes flocked the streets and many kids , looking extremely grubby in very shabby clothing .

much sleep later city tour, lectures on what to do and what not to do spanish classes I wondered would I get time at all to even make a phone call in the next 3 weeks , and now by day 3 I will be lucky, maybe at 5 am !! Anyway we were all assigned our work places and proceeded into the trucks for a tour of same , one girl is working at a soup kitchen which is basically a hovel that , have to go internet cafe closing , to be continued,,,,,, God knows when